Anet E10 / E12 Review , experiences and improvements
The Chinese DIY 3D printer manufacturer "Anet" has added a new 3D printer to its range. The Anet E10 is a FDM printer whose frame is made of aluminum profiles and, at least structurally, looks very similar to the Creality CR-10. All information and how the 3D printer has beaten in the multi-week test, you will find in the following review!
Model: Anet E10
Type: FDM printer
Housing material: aluminum
Print speed: 40 - 120 mm / s
XY accuracy: 0.015 mm
Z-precision: 0.004 mm
Size: 40.00 x 44.00 x 49.50 cm
Diameter: mm 0.4
Temperature: up to 260 ° C
Layer height: 0.1 - 0.4 mm
Print bed size: 220 x 270 x 300 mm
Heating bed: Yes
Material: 1.75 mm ABS, HIPS, PLA and more.
First impression of the Anet E10
Update 13. November 2017
Meanwhile, another model of the Anet E model series has appeared. The new 3D printer listens to the label Anet E12 and in that sense is the big brother of Anet E10. Judging by first specifications and product images, Anet has that Concept of Anet E10 1: 1 transferred to the Anet E12 and merely enlarges the 3D printer to simultaneously achieve a larger print area. The Size of the printer is 420 x 520 x 510 mm.
print volume the manufacturer states 300 x 300 x 400 mm on. Another difference between the Anet E12 and the Anet E10 is the orange trim. It can be assumed that the Anet E12 has also taken over the "teething troubles" of Anet E10.
GearBest was one of the first importers to have the 3D printer listed as available. The price is about 275.00 €.
When it comes to DIY 3D printer kits is "Anet" one of the best known manufacturers. With the Anet A8 and Anet A6 (Anet A6 review), the manufacturer has already launched two inexpensive printer kits, which were particularly well received by the community and still offer a good introduction to the world of 3D printing. Of the Anet E10 is another DIY 3D printerin which only the parts are delivered for assembly. What makes this model so interesting is the Bowden setup and the aluminum frame.
Scope of delivery
The Anet E10 is called as Kit which, unlike the other Anet DIY 3D printers, mostly pre-assembled is. For safe transport, all parts are embedded in several polystyrene inserts. The 3 largest parts of the kit are the two pre-assembled frame parts, as well as the control center, which includes the power supply and the motherboard. Furthermore, there is the Scope of delivery including a set of screws and tools, 2x 10 meter PLA filament in white, a durable foil and a small spatula. In addition to the assembly instructions in print form, there is also a USB stick with configuration files, further instructions, 3D printer software and finished print files. What is missing in the scope of delivery is a pair of pliers for loosening the cable ties.
Assembly of the Anet E10
By preassembling the 3D printer, the Build up after about 30 minutes done. As a result, the Anet E10 undercuts the construction time of one Anet A6 Although A8 clearly, nevertheless there are some on the part of the manufacturer Patzer during pre-assembly, Especially with our test copy it was so that the toothed belt of the Y-axis was anything but affectionately attached and had to be completely re-tensioned and fastened. What's more, Anet has pre-assembled the Z-axis stepper in such a way that the connected cable is guaranteed to hang on the heating bed when the motors are connected. Finally, you should turn both motors, so that the plug pointing forward or to the side. Also with the screws caution is necessary. In some cases, screws are already pulled so tight that they can hardly be loosened, but in some cases screws are only loosely in the borehole.
The assembly of our test copy you can watch in this video.
The entire setup is done in just 8 steps. The included assembly instructions are illustrated and comprehensible. The level of difficulty is kept very low especially in this model, so that the Setup also carried out without problems by the 3D printer newbie can be. Especially the Wiring the Anet E10 is very easy. The cables are already connected to the mainboard and the power supply, so you do not have to worry about this part of the wiring. The individual cables of the stepper and switch, as well as the Heizbettes are clearly labeled and are simply plugged.
Design and workmanship
The design of the Anet E10 is based primarily on the previously published and quite successful Creality CR-10, Form the framework T aluminum profiles, A big advantage of the aluminum frame compared to the acrylic frame of the Anet A8 Anet A6, is the better stability, which also ensures a more accurate print image, and the lower wear of the frame. Straight acrylic is known to break under constant tension and constant vibration relatively quickly or to deform. To avoid vibration, the Anet E10 is a total of 4 rubber feet fitted. Unfortunately, Anet decided to make the shafts of the shafts from a 3D print material. Here certainly higher quality mounts would have been desirable.
The print bed or hotbed of the Anet E10 will pass through on the Y axis bearings emotional. On tensioner already exists, which eliminates the need to rebuild the 3D printer. The printing volume of the Anet E10 is again more compact. With only 220 x 270 x 300 mm is the print area slightly more compact than the 300 x 300 x 400 mm large print area of the Crealty CR-10, To criticize is the attachment of the belt. This is held only by two screw heads.
The extruder is from the Type "Bowden", In contrast to the "direct extruder" is the "Bowden extruder", the stepper, which drives the filament, not on the X-axis, but is attached separately to the printer. As a result, the X-axis has a significantly lower weight, which relieves it and at the same time significantly reduces weight higher printing speed is possible. The higher range between extruder and Nozzle brings the Bowden extruder but also disadvantages, which, for example, the pressure of soft filaments is much more difficult. For (theoretically) provides more stability second Z-axis stepper with thread guideIt is for example at Creality CR-10 just does not exist. To criticize is the design of the extruder. The cooling block sits directly on the slide, so the sense of such a cooling block is completely wrong, because the air can hardly circulate. Then there is the huge fan that blows not only on the cooling block, but also on the heating block. Last but not least, the fan duct is so puny that it is of little use and a modified fan-duct would find little space.
Mainboard, power supply and display are in a separate and separate from the Anet E10 control unit accommodated. By doing so improved cable management The overall effect of the 3D printer is tidier and makes it easier to track which cable goes where. The graphic display (12864 LCD) is identical to the display of the Anet A6, The operation of the printer is done via a one-button control. A minor improvement over the previous Anet models is now on the power supply located toggle switch. A really small, but all the louder fan ensures that the hot air is blown out of the metal housing.
quality of workmanship
The 3D printer is processed according to the price. All components could be fitted together and screwed together. There were no defective parts especially with our kit. However, one should just be aware of the processing quality of such DIY 3D printer kits that you can also use one "Monday play" caught. Mostly, however, the errors are not serious and are limited to broken screws or dirty holes.
Hardware and printing properties
The print area of the Anet E10 is 220 x 270 x 300 mm. The included jet has a diameter of 0.4 mm. The layer height lies between 0.1 and 0.4 mm. Different filaments can be printed, from typical PLA and ABS to HIPS or wood. According to Anet is the Accuracy of the X and Y axis at 0.015 mm, which is the Z-axis at 0.004 mm. The maximal print speed lies between 40 and 120 mm / s. In the used engines These are unspecified NEMA17 stepper motors. At the mainboard Annet remains faithful and continues to use the Anet V2.0.
Calibration of the Anet E10
Before you can even start printing with the Anet E10, you have to Bowden Setup must be completed, as well as the individual axes of the 3D printer calibrated and the hotbed must be leveled. This is not the included assembly instructions in print form. Instead, you should stick to the digital assembly instructions, which is located on the included SD memory card. It explains, among other things, how the Bowden tube is connected to the extruder and the stepper, how to insert the filament correctly and how to calibrate the individual axes or the hotbed. The individual steps are summarized below in the following video.
Here is one more Checklistthat should be considered before the first printing.
- Are the cables connected correctly?
- Are all screws tightened?
- Are all axes calibrated and the hotbed leveled?
- Are the straps stretched?
- Can the heating bed, slide and Z-axis move freely?
If you have done the above steps correctly, nothing stands in the way of a first print. Pre-made GCODE print files are already on the SD memory card. Even a slightly older version of Cura including configuration file is the manufacturer, so you can create your own print files without major detours. However, it is recommended that the current Healing Version directly from the Ultimaker website (link) to download.
For printing, simply insert the SD memory card into the slot of the control center and call the item via the selection menu "Init. SD Card " on, which means "initialize SD memory card". Then you can access the folder structure of the memory card and start the first print attempt by selecting the desired file. Alternatively it is also possible over the USB interface of the motherboard send a file to the printer to start printing. All drivers are located on the supplied SD memory card.
After a print job has started, the print bed and the nozzle are set to the one indicated in the GCODE temperature brought. The default temperature is usually 50 ° C for the heating bed and 200 ° C for the nozzle. Here is a try! Different filaments require different temperatures and even with the same type of filament there are differences. A majority of filament manufacturers specify a pressure temperature on the packaging of the filament. The same applies to the filament supplied by Anet, which should be printed between 190 ° C and 210 ° C.
Our first pressure test was a little one "XYZ Calibration Cube"that was created from the supplied Cura configuration file. An advantage of the cube is that it can be printed in a very short time and at the same time the accuracy of the individual axes can be checked. The heating bed was set to 50 ° C by default and the heating block to 200 ° C. With the temperature of the heating block, the Anet E10 had to fight visibly. The problem is the fan, which blows not only on the cooling block, but at the same time on the heating block. To bring the 3D printer to temperature, so you tap the lower part of the fan with tape.
print results was just acceptable for the first print attempt, even if a visible "warp effect" occurred. After some fine-tuning without any great modifications to the printer, the Anet E10 achieved print results that matched a modified Anet A6 and score through barely visible layers. As well proved the durable film, which saves the Bluetape or masking tape. All previous prints stuck well on the durable film and could be solved very easily.
You want to know where to buy the Anet E10? In our price comparison we list the current offers of the most popular shops. All prices are checked and updated several times a day. Should a shop appear several times, it concerns the different warehouses of the dealer.
►Reasonable quality of workmanship
►Good print quality
►Large printing area